Saturday, August 24, 2002


victory espresso

and here's another place for the brooklyn espresso tour. with a caveat. . .

an LM linea 2 group by our friends at esi, what seems to me to be a mazzer rio grinder, and batdorf & bronson dancing goats blend beans. the place itself is a funky, tiny old diner retrofitted to a makeshift espresso bar on a quiet corner at state and hoyt, off atlantic avenue. seating is on the street.

i asked the barista for a double espresso, which cost all of $1.90. sadly, they don't have demitasse cups; 8 oz paper is all ya get. (believe me, i mentioned this!). the barista tore open a fresh bag of beans, popped 'em in the grinder and ground to order. i peered around the high counter and saw his crooked-finger sweep. he didn't use a tamper but passed the handle past the grinder, so i assume it got a light tamp from an attached "tamper foot" on the grinder.

i heard the steam wand and thought what? since there were only 2 other customers, i thought he was playing with the machine temp. then he held this huge cup under the handle for a gazillion years -- at least 35 seconds.

i looked at the cup and saw thick heavy slightly reddish, but a little light crema. and about 6 oz. liquid. yes, i asked for a double espresso but got an americano! i tried to talk to the barista about the beans, but when i did he fled and fetched the manager. she had good english; that's when i realized his english was dicey at best.

i was worried about the drink. but everything else seemed ok. and i can report that it was a good americano. no sugar required and not bitter. but not naturally sweet, either. i enjoyed it and was pleasantly surprised.

i definitely think the victory is worth a stop on the brooklyn espresso tour. just make sure you are actually communicating with the barista! it's open from 7:30am to 7:30pm. it also has light panini and ices.


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